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Prague cool!

With Czech's artists coming to Birmingham, Stacey Barnfield travels in the opposite direction to find out why Prague is fast becoming the hottest destination in Europe.

 

I read a while ago that the amount of beer Czechs get through in a year works out at one litre per person... per day.
Banana beer, cherry beer, coffee beer, even champagne in beer. You name it, they'll brew it.
Just imagine the hangovers.


But despite the obvious attractions of visiting a nation in a permanent state of fermentation, there's much more to see besides the bottom of a glass.

So as Prague's hottest young designers and artists converge on Birmingham for the series of Czechmania exhibitions at the city's galleries and arts centres, CityLiving hot-footed it to Prague to find out what makes the Czech Republic's ultra-cool capital city tick.
And the first thing that's noticeable is that it doesn't start and end at the two ends of the Charles Bridge, as many a guidebook would have you believe.

The Charles Bridge in Prague



Prague is a city of astounding beauty with a wealth of historic buildings to admire - and have yourself photographed in front of - thanks largely to it surviving two World Wars relatively unscathed, and the subsequent blunders of post-war planners and developers.

The bulk of Prague's attractions are in the central 'towns' of Mala Strána, Nové Mesto, Staré Mesto, Josefov and Hradàany, and the city is dissected by the meandering Vltava River.

Most tourists will head for the most famous locations; Prague Castle, Old Town Square and Charles Bridge, which quickly become overrun with guided tour parties desperate to learn every shred of detail about the sights' histories, and in their over-eagerness will trample underfoot anything in their path... you've been warned.


A much more pleasant experience, and one which offers incredible views of the terracotta rooftops of Mala Strana and the wider city beyond can be found in the terraced baroque gardens of Vrtba, which date back to the early 18th century.


A stone's throw from here is the island of Kampa - one of several on the Vltava - which was submerged in the devastating floods of August 2002, as several restaurants show with amazing pictures on their walls.


Intimate and sheltered from the rest of the city, Kampa is often described as Little Venice, because of its canals and bridges linking it to the rest of the city.


If you're a Prague first-timer the most famous sights are a must, especially the Old Town Square - the city's traditional heart - and the astronomical clock's statuettes which parade on the hour, until early evening. Nearby Narodni street is one of the city's liveliest, and home to dozens of recognisable fashion labels and Western-influenced stores which sprung up after the country's Velvet Revolution of 1989, as well as countless coffee houses, bars and restaurants.


Art lovers are adequately catered for, with numerous galleries, from the avant-garde to classical.

Prague


The largest modern art centre is the Veletrzni palac (Trade Fair Palace, www.ngprague.cz). The building itself - a colossal white structure built in 1928 - is just as impressive as the role call of artists found within; Picasso, Klimt, Munch, Matisse... pretty much every name associated with modern art in whose company you would wish to spend an afternoon.


Not quite as spectacular, but just as impressive and worthy of 120 of your Czech crowns (just over £2) is the museum dedicated to the life and work of graphic artist and art nouveau pioneer Alfonse Mucha (www.mucha.cz).


His lithographs - most famously for the Parisian stage actress Sarah Bernhardt - revolutionised the way posters were designed with an elegance and attention to detail previously unheard of.

The Velkoprevorske Square in Prague


On display alongside Mucha's work is a collection of photographs showing his decadent and riotous lifestyle with the Paris bourgeois set, and the surreal photograph of close friend and fellow artist Paul Gaugin playing the piano in his underpants is worth the entrance fee alone.


Trust me, you've got to see it to believe it.


Prague at night takes on a whole new, magical meaning (not just because of the cheap beer, although it helps) when the city's churches, cathedrals and monuments are lit in a Disney-like fashion.


Sampling Czech cuisine is a true experience for those with adventurous tastebuds, as this is a nation that could have been raised on Atkins. Local dishes are based on meat, meat and more meat. As well as the traditional gulas (pork stew with dumplings and veg), steak with lemon and chicken with peach are just a couple of the more eccentric selections we spotted.

Stacey Barnfield flew to Prague with Czech Airlines, which runs daily flights from Birmingham. Visit www.czechairlines.com for prices and timetables.


He stayed at The Hotel Andel Stroupenickeho 21, Praha 5. Tel: +420-2 9688 9688. www.andelshotel.com or info@andelshotel.com

 

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